Cantina Piemontese, nestled in the heart of Milan within the historic palace of Ca’ dei Tencitt, is one of the city’s finest restaurants. The story behind its existence is as fascinating as the delectable cuisine it serves.
Rewind to the 14th through 19th centuries, when a network of artificial water canals stretched to this part of the city, with the Santo Stefano canal ending right here on via Laghetto (meaning ‘pond’), the nearest dock to the Duomo. This was where barges laden with marble and coal arrived for the construction of the Duomo cathedral.
After unloading, the coal was stored in the building that now houses the restaurant. The coal workers, known as “tencitt” (or “lumps of coal” in Milanese dialect), were ironically fortunate. The coal dust they were constantly covered in served as an antiseptic, and during the Milan plague epidemic, not a single coal worker fell ill. In gratitude, they created a fresco of their patron saint, the Virgin Mary, called Madonna dei Tencitt, which can still be seen in the restaurant today.
In 1908, Cantina Piemontese was established within these historic walls. Over the years, it has been a magnet for celebrities, gourmands, and the city’s bohemians. Even today, a glance at the reservation book reveals a parade of famous Milanese names, with the title “avv.” (attorney) or “dott.ssa” (doctor) being a frequent sight. Although it’s not a tourist hotspot, the clientele is always diverse and sophisticated.
Cantina Piemontese is more than a trattoria. It’s a refined restaurant with a rich history, exquisite food presentation, excellent service, and subtle lighting. It skillfully avoids the stuffiness that often plagues establishments of its prestige. The menu changes with the seasons, focusing more on meat and pasta than fish. The Escargot snails, meat tartare, and pasta with ragu are noteworthy dishes. The wine list showcases over 300 wines, stored in the cantina available for informal tours.
However, the intrigue doesn’t end there! Past the cash register, down a narrow corridor, and beyond a staircase lies the hidden Tencitt bar, located in the former coal storage area. The combination of historic brick arches and skillful lighting creates a magical atmosphere. This gem is known only to the privileged few, and it’s almost always full. It’s the perfect spot for a pre or post-dinner drink, a full meal, or a private event. Occasionally, the restaurant hosts piano concerts for its guests.
On average, expect to spend about 80 euros per person, including wine. Reservations should be made a week in advance. In the winter, opt for a table inside, and in the summer, be sure to choose a spot on the terrace, which is one of the best in the city center. Great for a small group of friends, a special family outing, and even for a romantic dinner.
As for their summer terrace, it definitely deserves a dedicated article, stay tuned for it!
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